Cookbooks: Some of My Favorite Reading Material

Sarabeth Matilsky
December 22, 2002

I love cookbooks, especially ones that are fun to read and have clear, concise recipes that work. You would think that latter attribute would be a prerequisite for cookbook publication, but I'm continually surprised by authors who don't appear to test their own recipes. In the next few months I'll introduce some cookbooks and websites that offer some of the most reliably delicious recipes I've found anywhere.

The Complete Soy Cookbook
by Paulette Mitchell

Over three years ago, I found this cookbook in the dark basement of my local library. The following week, I bought the book. Since then, I've tried at least one third of Mitchell's recipes, with generally delicious results. I never thought I'd like tempeh as much as I do in her recipe for "Tempeh with Creamy Peanut Sauce," a quick and easy dinner that features a perfectly sweet/spicy sauce that complements tempeh's nutty taste and texture. And her tofu teriyaki salad made with cellophane noodles and fresh basil is sheer genius.

Mitchell's recipes are sometimes complex, but generally rewarding and well-written. She offers a great technique for creating fresh rice paper spring rolls, and she'll give you ideas for a hundred and one new ways to enjoy tofu. Throughout the book, there are helpful notes about ingredient substitutions, advance preparation, and general cooking techniques. Many of the dishes have an Asian influence, although she has some fine Italian-style recipes as well. Some recipes are vegan, and she also offers lighter versions of traditionally cheesy dishes, such as stuffed shells and parmesan-peppercorn dip.

Mitchell could use a heavier hand with garlic, so I generally double the amount she says. But if that's her greatest failing, she should be proud.

One of my favorite dishes from The Complete Soy Cookbook is the following lasagna recipe.

Tofu-Spinach Lasagna

8 Servings Adapted from "The Complete Soy Cookbook" by Paulette Mitchell

12 lasagna noodles
1 tbsp. olive oil
2-3 large portabella or 2 cups white mushrooms, chopped
2 carrots, coarsely grated
1/2 cup coarsely chopped green bell pepper
3/4 cup coarsely chopped onion
1-2 tbsp. minced garlic
29-oz. can tomato sauce
2 tsp. oregano
2 tbsp minced fresh basil (or 2 tsp. dried)
1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1/2 tsp. red pepper flakes, or to taste
Dash of salt, or to taste
1 1/2 cups mashed silken extra-firm tofu (12-oz. package)
1 cup nonfat ricotta cheese
Two 10-ounce packages frozen chopped spinach, thawed, drained, and squeezed dry
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 cup shredded part-skim mozzarella cheese

Preheat the oven to 375f. Lightly coat a 13- by 9-inch baking pan with olive oil.

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat; add the lasagna noodles. When the water returns to a boil, stir once to separate the noodles. Cook just until barely bendable, about 5 minutes. When the noodles are done, drain well; rinse with cool water and drain again.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large nonstick sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms, carrots, bell peppers, onion, and garlic; cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat; stir in the tomato sauce, fresh or dried oregano and basil, pepper, red pepper flakes, and salt. Adjust the seasonings to taste. Set aside.

Put the tofu and ricotta cheese into a food processor; process until the mixture is smooth. Stir in the spinach and 1/2 cup of the Parmesan cheese. Set aside.

To assemble the dish, spread about 1 cup of the tomato sauce mixture in the baking pan. Arrange 4 noodles lengthwise in an overlapping layer; spread 1 cup of the tofu-spinach mixture over the noodles and sprinkle with 1/3 cup of the mozzarella cheese. Repeat the layers two more times; top the dish with the remaining 1 cup of the tomato sauce mixture.

Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 35-45 minutes. Uncover and sprinkle with the remaining 1/2 cup Parmesan cheese. Bake for about 10 minutes longer, or until the cheese is melted and the top is lightly browned. Allow to stand for about 5 minutes before serving.

ADVANCE PREPARATION: This dish can be assembled up to 1 day before baking; cover and refrigerate. Bake just before serving. If possible, let stand at room temperature for about 15 minutes before baking; if chilled, allow about 10 minutes longer baking time.